Europe’s Kitschiest Capital is Quite Fun

Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, has become well known for its government-funded “Skopje 2014” initiative. Spending between 80 and 500 million dollars, the government tried to rebuild the city center to look more classically European. 20 buildings and 40 monuments were built - along with the city being flooded with statues. Beyond the construction, the government used it as a chance to propogate a revisionist narrative of a continuous Macedonian history - and to adopt historical figures like Alexander the Great into that story.

The program hit a lot of criticism - from its rewriting of history, to its exclusion of minority groups in the statues, to the cost, to the quality of execution. While some of the work looks nice, much of the city core of Skopje now looks like a caricature of a European Old Town - the kind of flimsy, cheap construction you’d expect to see in a theme park or Las Vegas. It’s tacky - and I kind of love it.

I have trouble saying whether I think the project was a success. On one hand, it’s really fun to explore - like an amusement park. On the other hand, its unrefined execution detracts from the fact that Skopje is actually a cool place. It’s full of good restaurants, lively bars, and good places to shop.

Whether the project was a success or not, I think the overall combination leaves Skopje an interesting destination.

Explore Downtown and Hunt for Statues

I think the most memorable thing that you’ll do in Skopje is explore the newly renovated core - which is centered around Macedonia Square and extends to the other side of the river. I would honestly just treat it like a theme park - wander around and just see what’s been built. From the enormous Alexander the Great Fountain to their Arc de Triumph mimic (the Macedonian Gate), it’ll range from well done to down right embarrassing to look at.

Shop at the Old Bazaar

Skopje has one of the largest Old Bazaars in the Balkans. It’s got a charming atmospheric feel - with its Ottoman architecture, mosques, and baths - and its produce market is really exceptional. I didn’t find it one of the most mesmerizing bazaars I’ve been to - but I did find myself strolling through it on more than one day.

Catch a Sunset at Kale Fortress

While the original fortress was largely lost in the 1963 earthquake, Skopje’s medieval fortress has been reconstructed since. While the fortress isn’t as exceptional as many you’ll find in the Balkans (in part because it’s just not as high up above the city), it has a really beautiful sunset view of the city. It’s a great place to end your day of exploring before you go get dinner.

Relax in City Park

It may be because it’s the perfect time of fall and the colors are beautiful - but I thought the old section of Skopje’ City Park was one of the best urban parks I’ve been to. It’s got a small lake that careens throughout it, crisscrossed by small bridges and surrounded by trees. It’s a really serene place to spend a few hours - and it has running tracks if you’re up for some exercise.

OTHER THINGS TO DO

There’s no shortage of things to do in Skopje - and I probably could’ve busied myself for another few days. Here are some of the most common to-dos.

• Go to a Museum: You can learn about the 1963 earthquake that destroyed most of Skopje in the Museum of Skopje, about local and Balkan Jewish history at the Holocaust Memorial, or learn about the region’s history at the Archaeological Museum. I’d advise against the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle, though, which was produced as one outlet for the prior ruling party’s revisionist take on history - and it largely a collection of wax statues. The Museum of Contemporary Art was recommended to me - but it was closed while I was there.

• Visit the Mother Theresa Memorial House: Mother Theresa was born in Skopje and there’s a small memorial museum just south of Macedonian Square dedicated to her. The architecture is quite interesting - but the museum itself is lackluster.

• Take a Hike: You can hike (or take a cable car or public bus 25) up Mount Vodno to see the Millennium Cross at the top and catch panoramic views of the city.

• Head to Matka Canyon: About one hour out of the city by public bus 60, you’ll find a large canyon with an artificial lake. It’s known to have a massive underwater cave that you can get to by boat (tour or rented kayak) and the area has a bunch of hiking trails to explore.

And don’t forget to just explore the local businesses of Skopje. As a vegan, it was easily the best food city, for me, that I’ve been to in the Balkans.