Petra is a Hiking Dream

A World Wonder that Exceeds the Hype

Petra, the Rose City, is one of the world’s most famous archeological sites - and certainly the most famous in Jordan. It’s a city carved into cliffside stone in a desert in the South of Jordan - large enough that it once held almost 20,000 people. The tombs, which carry traits of Hellenistic architecture, are stunning inlays amid an already exquisite natural landscape.

Visiting Petra was a bucket list item for me for as long as I can remember. I was so excited going into it that I was worried I’d be disappointed - that my expectations would prove to be too high. I’m delighted to share that Petra exceeded my expectations. Going in, I couldn’t imagine the scale of what I’d end up seeing - or the natural beauty it was built within. For my three days in Petra, I felt like a genuine adventurer - often finding myself alone on trails exploring caves and tombs. I was consistently in awe.

When you’re planning your trip to Jordan, I strongly recommend scheduling as many days in Petra as you can. I did three consecutive days (which is the max package offered in the Jordan Pass) and I was not even slightly bored by the end. I did see (and join) other travelers who did the main sights in one long day; it’s possible (and still delightful) but also tough and sometimes rushed. When I joined a one-day visitor for his full day, we walked 22 miles and climbed 250 flights of stairs that day (in a desert). Be prepared for the days to be physically challenging - but very, very worth it.

While the remnants are hard to see now, one of the most interesting things about Petra (which you can learn about in the museum) is how advanced their water system was almost 2,000 years ago. They essentially maintained a manmade oasis in the middle of the desert - so well that they even had a pool. It’s really exciting to imagine what life was like amid the ruins two millennium ago.

Enjoy the Grandiosity of the Front Door Entrance

The main entrance to Petra passes through a long canyon (Al Siq) to arrive at Petra’s most famous building - The Treasury. The entire path is grand on a scale that is hard to put in words - and sets the stage for something incredible.

The downside of the main entrance, though, is that it’s also a tourist trap. As soon as you enter, locals will ask if you want to ride a horse, take a picture on a camel, or pay for a secret photo spot. At points, it’s so overwhelmingly that it seriously takes away from the experience. Plus, this is by far the most crowded section of Petra - so it will at no point feel like a private adventuring experience.

If you have only one day in Petra, I still think you should enter the front gate just for the sheer grandiosity of the canyon. Just go in expecting to be swamped by tourist traps.

But Don’t Sleep on the Back Door

If you have more than one day in Petra, I strongly recommend going in through the back on you first day. You can take a free shuttle from the main entrance to Little Petra - and from there you’ll have a 90 - 120 minute hike to your first sight of Petra (the monastery). (From there it’s another 60 - 90 minutes to the Treasury).

The back door hike is also really beautiful - and it lacks the kind of tourist traps and crowds you find at the front door. Coming in through a back will feel like opening a present - starting small with little gems (like Little Petra right off the bet) and working your way to the grand prize. The last thing you get to coming from the back will be the tourist traps - and by that time, you’ll be so delighted that they won’t phase you. While the front door has a more dramatic unfolding, there’s something remarkable about the gradual unfurling of the hike from Little Petra.

Marvel at the Main Section of Petra

The main city of Petra is the true prize of visiting. Here, you’ll quickly experience the sheer scale of the ancient city - with it’s royal tombs, Roman theater, and cliffside dwellings. Whether you’re coming from the front or the back, this is the section that will just take your breath away.

Take your time, savor every moment. Your imagination will go wild - and you will just be endlessly impressed by the ingenuity of this ancient people.

Walk Through the Royal Tombs

In the main city section, you can climb up to explore the Royal Tombs. You’ll find exquisite views of the theater and city - and also get to see the Hellenistic facades of the tombs up close. Plus, you can walk into the tombs in this area - which will probably be your first opportunity to do so, especially if you’re coming in from the front.

Enjoy Some of the Best Views at the Monastery

Like the Treasury at the front of Petra, the Monastery is a standalone tomb - and also one of the largest and best preserved buildings in all of Petra. The area is riddled with beautiful (fairly private) viewing points - and is, in my mind, the best spot in all of Petra for pictures.

If you come from the back, the Monastery will be the first major part of Petra you see. If you’re coming from the front, the Monastery will require a bit of an uphill hike to get there (which you’ll then have to go right back down). If you do plan to come from the back one of the days, I’d save the monastery for that day since it’ll be on the way.

Feel Like a Real Adventurer on the High Sacrifice Point Trail

By far, my favorite part of Petra was the the High Sacrifice Point trail - which starts with a set of stairs near the Roman Theater. Here, you’ll hike to the top of a small mountain with views of Petra and the desert. The remarkable part, though, is the way down - where you’ll bump into isolated, more remote (yet still exquisite) tombs everywhere. You can go off trail, walk through the dessert, and explore buildings all by yourself. It feels like real adventuring - like everything you find is a real discovery.

One of my favorite finds was a tomb that had carved crown molding - making it look like it was a ballroom. My friend and I played house hunters as we explored - imagining which of the tombs we’d want to buy and make a home out of. It’s a memory that I think will stick with me forever.

Take the Back Trail to the Treasury Viewpoint

Last, you’ll probably want that immensely shareable photo of you from above the Treasury. You can pay for one of the easier to get to spots - but it’s more rewarding if you hike to one. While there is a secret branch off the High Sacrifice Point Trail that leads to a ledge side view, it’s not for the hiking faint of heart. Most people, myself included, will opt for the Al-Khubtha Trail - which ends in a man’s house who will sell you tea. I recommend making the hike early or late because it can be crowded midday.