A CITY OF SOPHISTICATES WITH THE ECONOMY TO SUPPORT THEM

I’m going to preface this by saying that I accidentally went to Milan during the Milan Furniture Fair - which rendered my so-so hostel stupidly expensive and crushed my budget - and the weather was pretty bad throughout my whole stay. That said, I just . . . didn’t like Milan very much.

Milan is as you’d expect given its reputation; you’ll find impeccably dressed people wandering through districts with pristine, expensive restaurants, all of the world’s most expensive brands, luxury cars, and a general air of “you can’t afford me.” The city does drip in art and esteemed culture. Because I was there during Design Week, there were pop up furniture installations abound - so the city was literally furnished with the most modern, expensive interior decorations.

If you want to step into the world of the magazine elites - the clothes that are found on fashion runways, the pristine decorations of showy old money grandeur, and Michelin starred restaurants - then Milan is a good step-in to that life for you.

If you’re like me and prefer nature, counter-culture spaces, and idyllic old-world charm - Milan doesn’t have them in large supply. Nonetheless, I did find some spaces I enjoyed and spent time a lot of my time in.

WALK THROUGH MONUMENTAL CEMETERY

My single most meaningful experience in Milan was spending time in Monumental Cemetery. It’s a large public space full of exquisite sculptures that meaningfully celebrate life and anguish. I was so moved that, at a point, I couldn’t handle more so I had to haul ass out quickly.

There is something about being in a space so full of people who almost certainly were wildly successful in their day - enough to afford to be buried here and to have these monuments built to honor them. Yet, they’re not famous - they’re largely forgotten. It reminded me to embrace humility in life - that no matter what I do or achieve, it’s little in the large scope of life and history. I left with a deeper knowing that all that really matters is trying to live authentically and fostering kind, genuine connection during my lifetime. I may be able to enact some meaningful change in my sphere of influence, but in the grand schemes of things, I am powerless and just a piece of something much, much larger than myself.

SPEND TIME IN MILAN’S PARKS

I spent most of my time in Sempione park watching the baby birds and turtles. The park is nice but not extraordinary - and it has a large castle on the grounds. I also really enjoyed Piazza Gae Aulenti, which is a more modern park with some really cool architecture and common spaces. The area north of Piazza Gae Aulenti reminded me of Northern Liberties in Philadelphia - a space that borders on counter-culture but is too polished, leaving it with a veneer of inauthenticity. Nice to spend time in - but a little manufactured.

STROLL ALONG CANAL NAVIGLIO

Milan historically had an intricate system of canals that crossed through the city - and some of them are in tact. You can walk along Canal Naviglio and Darsena di Milano - enjoying the nice views of the Milan architecture against the water. As the canal leaves the city, it’s also one of the few spaces I got counter-culture vibes from the local businesses.

HEAD TO PLAZA DEL DUOMO

The crown jewel of Milan historical spaces is Plaza Del Duomo, with the Duomo Cathedral being its centerpiece. The space is stunning - although maybe slightly overwrought / overdone. I paid to enter the Duomo cathedral, and didn’t really find it worth it. I think it’s most impressive from the outside - with its many spires and sculptures - and the interior was fairly ordinary for a cathedral of its time. The plaza also houses Galleria Victoria Emanuel II, possibly the fanciest open air mall in the world.

OTHER THINGS TO DO

Milan is one of the most populated areas in Europe, so there’s no shortage of things to do. Here are some of the most common:

Head to Lake Como: I didn’t have the time to do this and expect at some point in my life I will find time to go to Lake Como. It’s a world famous resort area for its stunning lake backdropped by the Alps.
Window Shop at Quadrilatero d’Oro: This is Milan’s most upscale shopping district. You’ll find no shortage of spaces to spend away the entirety of your retirement savings.
Stroll through Brera: This neighborhood felt peak Milan to me; here you’ll find well dressed, extremely put-together people at art galleries, cute cafes, and fancy restaurants. For me, this was the “step-into-the-life” district of Milan.
Eat in Chinatown: I really enjoyed Chinatown in Milan because it felt more integrated into the city than most Chinatowns; the business were Asian - but the flair was still Milan - and it still gave off the air of “you can’t afford me.”
See the Last Supper painting in Santa Maria delle Grazie: Leonardo di Vinci’s famous Last Supper painting is housed in a church in Milan.

Milan Feels Like an Extremely Fancy Mall