Seek Clarity in Jerusalem
The World’s Nexus of Judaism, Christianity and islam
Jerusalem is arguably the world’s most important holy city - being an important historical site for the majority of the world’s population. Settled as the Old Testament City of David in the Bronze Age, it became the first United Kingdom of Israel. Jerusalem is also believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifiction and resurrection, as well as Mohammed’s ascension into heaven. As a result, a lot of the visitors you’ll meet in Jerusalem are on some sort of religious journey.
While much of Jerusalem is charming, I think the primary reason to visit is to explore its religious significance. Whether you adhere to an Abrahamic religion or not, the city is unavoidably spiritual - a place where faith is lived and exercised. It’s hard not be amidst this and not do some spiritual soul-searching.
For me, I didn’t expect the city to feel particularly meaningful - but it did. I’ve long struggled with the question of if I (still) identify as a Christian. I’m grateful for many of the principles of kindness, irreverence, and justice that I took from my early faith - but I’ve been unsure if I have faith in the gospel as something larger. Passing through the Christian holy sites, it became abundantly clear to me that I don’t hold Jesus as a lord and savior - or even believe in the Old Testament God. Having to confront that felt existentially tough for me - as I didn’t realize to what extent I’d used a fuzzy faith adherence as a form of spiritual bypassing. I found myself suddenly confronting both the things I respect and love about the faith I was born in - while also acknowledging all of its aspects I can’t support under my own values system. It felt a bit like reckoning with JK Rowling’s transphobia and my love of Harry Potter - if mixed into that I had been trained from birth to believe in Harry Potter as a form of higher truth. It left me reconciling what Christianity can add to my life as a source of moral learning - while also making clearer to me I can’t adhere to it as something divinely correct or brush past the things about it I found morally problematic. I still don’t know my faith - but I have an inherent, strong belief that true morality blooms from within - and (except for sociopaths), we have an inherent and powerful sense of right and wrong.
You might not have cared about my own spiritual journey - but I share it to say that it’s hard to separate the physical experience of being in Jerusalem with the spiritual experience. While I don’t know what kind of higher truth reckoning may hit you on your journey, I do believe if you’re open to it one is likely to strike.
Even if you’re not spirtually open to such a journey, I still recommend you explore Jerusalem with respect for others’ faith. It’s not a city for posing and selfies - but a place to respect others’ reverence and sit in witness.
Visit the (Presumed) Sites of Jesus’ Arrest, Death and Resurrection
Of the three main Abrahamic religions, Christianity has the largest number of significant sites to explore in Jerusalem. There are two sites that are believed to be the potential locations of Jesus’ crucifiction, burial and reincarnation - the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Garden Tomb. At the church in particular, you’ll experience many Christians on a form of pilgrimage - and finding items to bless in the tomb. I ended up going into the tomb with a group of Ukranian women who were frantically finding items to bless. It reminded me of what a saving refuge faith can be in hard times.
You can also walk along what is believed to be the street that Jesus was forced to carry the cross along - Via Dolorosa. For something a bit more peaceful and quiet, you can also go to Gethesme Garden to see where Jesus prayed before he was arrested. I wouldn’t feel compelled to explore all of them; after all, it’s all speculative as to what occurred where (and, of course, what of the story is real to begin with). Just go to what you have energy for and let the experience roll in.
Witness Prayer at the Western Wall
The Western Wall, the retaining wall for Temple Mount, is considered the most holy site in Judaism. The wall itself is a proxy for a temple that was destroyed - the remains of that holy site. Visiting, you’ll see large numbers in prayer along the wall and see the written prayers stuffed into the wall’s cracks.
Visit the Site of Mohammed’s Ascension
In Temple Mount, you’ll find the Dome of the Rock - a mosque built over the site of Mohammeds ascension. Hours are limited and you can only enter from a bridge along the Western Wall (unless you’re Muslim), so I recommend doing some planning in advance if you want to visit. Here, you’ll be able to see Muslim faith in one of their most holy sites.
Other Things to Do
Jerusalem is a large city - so beyond exploring its religious significance, there’s plenty to do. Here’s some of what you can get up to:
Shop at the Old City markets: Old City Jerusalem is cool to explore - with the Christian and Muslim quarters in particular having lots of market shopping.
Visit Gazelles: In the south of Jerusalem, there’s a park that is also a reserve for gazelles - an endangered species - called Gazelle Valley.
Head to a Museum: If you have the emotional resources for a day of memorial, you can spend several hours in the Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial Museum. If you’re looking for a day of learning, check out the Israel Museum or the Tower of David Museum.
Explore the City of David: Part of the original City of David has been unearthed - and you can visit for free. There are two tunnels from the city below ground (one dry and one wet) that you can pay to take a tour of as well.
Eat at a Food Market: If you’re craving a late night bite to eat, try Mahane Yehuda Market. In addition to produce and baked goods, you’ll find some trendy fast casual restaurants and bars.
Walk Along the Walls: Along Rampart Walk, you can walk along Jerusalem’s city walls and catch some different views of the city and the hills.
View the Israeli Government Buildings: In West Jerusalem, you can schedule a tour of the Israel Supreme Court building as well as its parliament (the Knesset). Between the two of them, you’ll find a large park and a rose garden.
Check Out Newer Parts of the City: For a more modern side of Jerusalem, explore Rehavia or Nachalat Shiva. To see a beautiful neighborhood at the bottom of the Jerusalem Hills, go a bit more west to Ein Karem.
As a word of caution, I think Jerusalem can easily be emotionally overwhelming. I wouldn’t overbook your day - and instead check in with yourself as you go to see how much energy reserve you have. Don’t be afraid of taking time off and just relaxing. I spent a lot of time watching Squid Games once my energy was tapped.
