Hike Taroko Gorge in Hualien

A Foodie base to Explore Taiwan’s Natural Treasure

A small city (of about 100,00 people) on the east coast of Taiwan, Hualien is known as the gateway to Taroko Gorge National Park (the world’s largest marble gorge). Beyond easy access to some truly stunning hikes, Hualien also offers incredible eats after your day of hiking - from Taiwan famous mochi to scallion pancakes. Eat, hike, repeat.

 

Go Hiking

Taroko Gorge, the world’s largest marble gorge, is one of the top destinations in Taiwan - and for good reason. Pretty much anywhere you go in the national park, you will find breathtaking mountain views, pristine water, or local temples set against stunning backdrops. For me, Taroko Gorge was also where I got engaged . . . So coming back alone was a must.

You have a few options for how to get to Taroko from Hualien - which depend on your price range and sense of adventure. The easiest and most expensive is to book a day tour, which will take you to all the easy hikes, view points, and some of the nearby attractions. Cheaper (potentially cheapest if there are two of you), you can rent a motor scooter (for about $10-15) and drive yourself around, giving you the flexibility to see whatever sites you want to go to on your own schedule. The cheapest option for a solo traveler is to buy an all-day ticket for Public Bus 310 (for under $10); this is a good option if you’re only going to stop at a few places within the park but doesn’t run frequently enough to allow you to hit all the major sites.

If you choose the scooter or bus route, grab a map of the park (which should be available in your hotel or hostel). It will clearly lay out the most common destinations.

The easy hiking trails are Shakadong Trail, Swallow’s Grotto, and Tunnel of Nine Turns. For something more challenging to do on your own, try Lushui Trail. If you’re feeling more adventurous, you can try Zhuili Old Trail - a cliffside hike that you need to schedule in advance because it requires a permit. I recommend booking Zhuili as a tour because they will help with the permit. (Zhuili is not for those afraid of falling from heights, like me. Thinking about that hike three years later, I still get anxiety).

The park also has a few temples (like Eternal Spring Shine) and suspension bridges that are common stopping points. These will be hard to get to on the public bus but are easy stops on the scooter (and common destinations for tours).

 

Eat, Eat, Eat

For a smaller city, Hualien punches above its weight class in terms of food. It’s famous for its scallion pancakes (prepare for a stressful ordering situation and a long wait if you don’t speak Mandarin) and Tzen mochi (go for the peanut and black sesame flavors). It is also packed with local gems; try the gnocchi here, a restaurant we ate at two days in a row.

Hualien also has a more spacious night market than is normal in Taiwan, with broad lanes that leave it not feeling cramped. Head to Dongdaemun at the end of your day to grab some street food, or potentially some aboriginal dishes.

 

Other Things to Do

Taroko isn’t the only local piece of nature that tourists flock to. Here are some other common destinations:

  • Quingshui Cliffs: A steep series of coastal bluffs north of Taroko National Park, this dramatic viewpoint is a common stop for Taroko tours.

  • Qixingtan Beach: Just north of Hualien, this pebble beach is a also common stop for most Taroko tours.

  • Liyu Lake: Just south of Hualien, Liyu Lake (Carp Lake) is a common stop for those on a road trip, known for activities like paddle boarding.

  • Rent a Bike: The coastal track around Hualien, including Nanbin Park, has an extensive cycling trail. It’s a really nice area to spend a day riding your bike, enjoying the sea views.

To me, a few days hiking in Taroko and then eating in Hualien are soul-filling enough that there’s no reason to pack your days beyond that. Unless you’re on a tour or staying in Hualien for more than three days, I think it’s perfectly fine to skip these sites.

 
Devin ScottAsia