Get Woefully Lost in Fez

Fez is one of the three imperial cities of Morocco - as it has been the capital several times throughout its history. The country’s second largest city, Fez is known for its Medina (walled Old City) - the largest in Morocco, one of the world’s largest pedestrian zones and a UNESCO world heritage site - as well as its historic Islamic architecture. Less overwhelming than Marrakesh and more rich in tradition than Rabat, I think Fez is the enchanting middle ground for a tourist who wants to be steeped in Moroccan culture without becoming overstimulated.

For me, the delight of Fez is just wandering around its confusing and mesmerizing maze of small streets. No matter how much I kept my wits about me, I’d always find myself completely lost in some small alley, delighting in a new craft, food, or scent. And each time I’d eventually find my way back to a familiar path marker - so it was rarely frustrating.

 

Wander Through the Souks

Fez’s medina is one of the largest pedestrian zones in the world - and it’s filled almost entirely with souks (markets). It’s a maze of small, weaving streets that you’re sure to get lost in - though it doesn’t really matter where you wind up because every section is filled with its own delights. Be careful at night, though, because some of the gates close after 7PM - making it even tougher to find your way around.

If you’re not the type to want to get lost, I recommend scheduling a walking tour of the Old City. A middle ground is to accept help from people on the street who are offering to show you around; they’ll all charge $2 or $3 and take you to a shop along the way, but they are often the easiest way to get somewhere specific . I uncharacteristically took their assistance several times.

The place most commonly targeted is Chouara Tannery - the world’s oldest and city’s largest tannery - and a UNESCO world heritage site. I think it’s best viewed from a rooftop terrace - which you’ll likely end up tipping someone to take you to. Be warned the smells are intense.

 

Take in Some Stunning Islamic Architecture

Throughout the Medina are really beautiful examples of Islamic architecture - each with reasonable entry fees. Check out the Al Attarine Mosque or Bou Inania Madrasa for the beautiful courtyards, tile work, and large arches.

Argued by some to be the world’s longest continuous running higher education institution, Mosque and University Kairaouine is another common tourist stop - though we only took in from a rooftop terrace.

 

Other Things to Do

I don’t think keeping rigid to a list of things to see is a good way to experience Fez - as its beauty tends to unfold naturally when you wander. If you’re looking for some specific experiences, though, here are some of the most common things to do:

  • Relax in a Park: Just outside of the Medina and a bit removed from the city bustle, you can chill at the well landscaped Jnan Sbil Park.

  • Walk Under a City Gate: Fez’s Medina is a walled city accessible through several gates - the most famous being the Blue Gate (Bab Boujloud).

  • Take a Spa Day: Fez has several traditional hammams where you can get a bath and massage.

  • Go to a Museum: You can head to an old palace, the Dar Batha Museum, to learn about traditional Moroccan crafts.

  • Take in a Panoramic View of Fez: You can head outside of the marina to the hilltop ruins of the Marinid Tombs. Here, you’ll get a panoramic view of the city (in addition to the ruins themselves).

Whatever you choose to do, try to stay present because, if you’re paying attention, you’ll almost always spy something cultural distinctive.

 
Devin ScottAfrica