Fall Wildly, Madly in Love with Edinburgh
HONESTLY PARADISE, IF PARADISE CAN BE CHILLY AND RAINY
I had been told by several seasoned travelers that Edinburgh is absolutely incredible - but that didn’t really prepare me for it. My first thought as I approached the Old Town was “maybe I live here now.” I immediately understood why Edinburgh inspires writers and artists; it is the most magical place I’ve been to. The city took my breath away, over and over again, throughout my entire stay.
Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital and second largest city; despite being the UK’s seventh largest, it is the second most visited place in the UK (behind London). From a street that inspired Diagon alley, to having castle views nearly everywhere you go, to a mountain smack in the middle of the city - Edinburgh offers a lot.
The city is paradise - if paradise can be subject to Scotland’s chilly and wet weather. The only fault I can give to it is that the Old Town panders to tourists - but even that it does in an idyllic way. And for a city bustling of tourists, the food scene is shockingly good.
If you ever get the chance to go, SAY YES!
BE INSPIRED BY THE OLD CITY
Two sections of Edinburgh are UNESCO areas - Old Town and New Town - but it’s Old Town that will really draw you in. As you approach from the train or bus station, you’ll see enourmous, castle-like tenements rising one after the other up a hill - leading up to a real castle at the top. As you walk up, the cobble-stoned streets are draped with flags and bustle with small boutiques and restaurants. Crossing between the streets and up the hill are closes - alleys that jut between the streets as shortcuts or entrances to plazas. It feels like stepping into a book or a movie - a place so magical it feels surreal.
The best way to explore is to walk the Royal Mile, a straight strip up the hill toward the castle , walk down Cockburn Street in the direction of New Town, and walk down Victoria Street (an inspiration for Diagon Alley and Edinburgh’s most instagrammed spot) to the Grassmarket.
It a shame that Old Town takes away the thunder of New Town - which is a magnificent example of Georgian urban planning and architecture. Placed in any other city, New Town would be a remarkable area to explore. But next to Old Town, it just seems to lack magic.
GO FOR A HIKE
Edinburgh has a mountain smack in the middle of the city - Arthur’s Seat - so it’s really easy to go for a hike. The climb up takes about 30 minutes and offers several panoramic views of the city and the sea. The landscape of the climb in itself is also quite remarkable. I recommend approaching from the west, near Innocent Railway Tunnel, because that route is less busy and offers some stone “stairs” up to the top.
My favorite from-on-high views of the city actually came from a smaller hill downtown, though - Calton Hill. In addition to offering the Scottish National Monument, Calton Hill is closer to Old Town, so you can make out more of the city as you look down. Plus, Calton Hill is much more accessible for those that can’t or don’t want to hike.
ADMIRE THE CASTLE
One of the most remarkable things about Edinburgh is that you get dramatic views of the castle from pretty much anyway in the city - creating a larger-than-life backdrop for essentially everything you do. It’s part of what makes the Edinburgh experience consistently surreal.
You can go to the castle to explore for about $20; you’ll want to book in advance because tickets do sell out. To be honest, I thought exploring the castle paled in experience when compared to viewing it from the bottom of the hill. Up close, the castle lacks the grandeur that it has from a distance. For that reason, I think it’s a perfectly fine tourist site to skip paying for. However, if you’re a military buff the tickets are definitely worth it; there are several military museums or exhibits at the castle, and it’s still partially in use for military purposes.
OTHER THINGS TO DO
You’ll have no problem finding things to do in Edinburgh because the Old Town is packed with people selling tours and experiences. Here are some of the most common things to do:
Go to the Museums: Edinburgh has several free museums including the National Scottish Museum (where you can learn about Scotland’s history), the Museum of Edinburgh (where you can learn about the city), The Writer’s Museum (where you can learn about famous writers from Edinburgh), and the Scottish National Gallery. To me, the museums of Edinburgh pale in comparison to those of nearby Glasgow. However, you’re in Scotland, so it’s good to have some indoor activities in your back pocket for the rainy days.
Go for a Walking Tour: Edinburgh is a city with some interesting lore and local history, so a walking tour is a good way to see the sights while learning about them in context of the city.
Take the Mary King’s Close Tour: There’s an underground system of roads and tunnels that is no longer in use that you can take a tour of.
Head to the Highlands: Like Glasgow, Edinburgh is a gateway to the highlands, so you can book a single or multi-day tour out of Edinburgh to see Scotlands most dramatic natural scenery.
I strongly advise against packing your days in Edinburgh. The absolute best part of Edinburgh is letting your imagination run wild. Leave lots of free time to just sit back and soak the city in.