Belgrade has a Youthful Hustle
A City Bursting in Creative Ventures
Belgrade is one of the oldest continuously lived in cities in Europe - but, because it’s been in 115 wars and been razed 44 times, its current form is new. It’s an interesting capital city because it’s so much larger than any other city in Serbia - 5 times larger than the next biggest city - and the only truly urban center in a 7 million person country. As a result, the city really sucks up the energetic creatives and lively city-seekers throughout the country - because it’s their only option.
This dynamic has left Belgrade full of youth-led businesses. It often felt like everywhere I turned, someone was trying to start a business, carve out a niche, and express themselves. I was impressed with the hustle - and the energy of the locals to really put themselves out there. I really got to dive into this dynamic because I was staying with one of my best friends and his girlfriend, a local. I tend to think I would’ve picked up on the same energies even without that good fortune, though.
I think it’s actually impressive that Belgrade left such an impression on me because, in my mind, there’s actually a lot running against it. It’s not a particularly beautiful city - in part because zoning and regulations have allowed development in an inconsistent, haphazard way. The nature is nice, but pollution leaves is less than stunning. Lack of investment in infrastructure often leaves it congested - and many commuting paths are inconvenient. It’s certainly not a city that is consistently delightful.
Overall, Belgrade is not an ideal destination for sightseeing - but it’s a really cool place to go with friends and have a good weekend. Eat, drink, and party your ass off.
Stroll Old Belgrade During the Day
I think the best thing to do on your first day in Belgrade is to check out Old Belgrade. You can start at Republic Square and then walk along Kneza Mihaila. This is the neighborhood that has the most old world charm and, I think, some of the prettiest architecture in the city. You’ll be able to shop, grab a coffee, and do some people watching while the sun is out.
The Parliament House, one of the most beautiful buildings in Belgrade, is also not far from Republic Square in the other direction.
Start Exploring Kalemegdon Fortress a bit Before Sunset
Belgrade’s main (perhaps only) historic site is its fortress. Once, the entire city was housed within its walls. Nowadays, it’s been transformed into an enormous park. I’d go a bit before sunset to be able to explore during the daylight and then catch a good seat to watch the sunset over the river.
Some of the main sites are Ruzica Church, the Belgrade Military Museum and the Pobednik Statue. The fortress also has underground tunnels that you can take a tour of, should you want to explore it further.
Roam the Cooler Neighborhoods at Night
Belgrade really comes alive at night - and that’s when you’ll get to see some of its youthful energy in full swing. I’d check out the Bohemian cobble-stoned neighborhood Skadarlija for dinner; this is the area that used to be home to local artists in the early 1900s - and now retains a good bit of that old charm (even if it also feels like it now caters to tourists). Then, head to Savamala for drinks (or even a late night out). This neighborood is full of bars and clubs - and attracts a younger crowd.
Other Things to Do
Belgrade is one of those cities where there’s no must-do path for your first visit. The main attractions go quickly - and you’ll be left with a lot of time to explore some of the many options in the city. I’d be choosy about what you plan - and set your expectations to try to see the spirit of Belgrade instead of enjoying terrific sites. Belgrade is not an ugly city - but it’s the culture, not the buildings or nature, that make it memorable.
Take a Walk Along the River: Both sides of the river have long promenades. I walked on the side of Old Belgrade - including around its polarizing waterfront redevelopment project - but I was actually told that the other side of the river south of Gardos is prettier.
Marvel at Belgrade’s Orthodox Churches: Belgrade has two main Orthodox churches: Saint Sava Temple (one of the largest in the world) and St. Mark Orthodox Church. Both are beautiful - and decked to the brim in the bright gold frescoes that you would expect from modern Orthodox churches. I found the interiors of both wonderfully tacky - the kind of decor I might expect in a Trump apartment. It’s all a bit too much - and also really mesmerizing.
Catch a Show: Tickets to performances at the National Theatre are affordable - and I was told (by a local) that the production quality is really good.
Relax Along an Island: The island within the Danube, Ada Ciganlija, has been partly reclaimed as a park - and is a place where locals go to relax along a river beach and enjoy water sports like kayaking.
Explore a Quieter Neighborhood: Zemun above Novo Belgrade is one of the oldest neighborhoods, and is known for being quiet, charming and having a very different architectural style than the other neighborhoods. I didn’t get a chance to explore - but the locals told me that it’s worthwhile.
Go to a Museum: If you want to learn about the history of Serbia, you can go to the National Museum or the Museum of Yugoslavia. For something more interactive, you can head to the Nikola Tesla Museum.
View the Battle Scars: Belgrade has reinforced some of the buildings that were bombed by NATO as tributes to the war. You can find them throughout the city.
Shop at the Market: You can head to Zelenograd Venac, which has been in operation since 1847, for some local produce and baked goods.
Take in New Belgrade: New Belgrade is interesting to walk around because it’s so different from the other neighborhoods. Belgrade is building quickly - and without a lot of regulation to keep buildings thematically consistent. You’ll find a lot of construction, tall apartment complexes, wider streets, and open spaces.
I wouldn’t try to pack your days too full in Belgrade. I was there for three days and I did very little of this list - and I don’t regret it at all. I think whatever you choose to do, do it slowly - and just see what about the city catches your eye.
