Banja Luka is Pleasant and Forgettable
A COMFORTABLE CITY WITH LITTLE REMARKABLE
Banja Luka is the second largest city is Bosnia and the de facto capital of Republika Srpska (Serbian Bosnia). It’s known for mixing Illyrian, Ottoman, Slavic, and Austrian-Hungarian roots - like much of the Balkans. While the city struck me as quite livable and I did enjoy relaxing for my few days there, I think there’s really little noteworthy about Banja Luka as a tourist destination. My best advice would be to hit the five common to-dos below - and then live out your time like you would at home. Grab a dinner, go to a movie, go shopping, relax.
Kastel Fortress: The oldest landmark in Banja Luka, Kastel Fortress dates back to Roman times when it was designed to protect the Salt Route - and it was fortified further during Austrian-Hungarian rule. It’s a free attraction and offers some nice river / Mountain View’s.
Gradska Trznica: This covered market, for me, was the best thing about Banja Luka. The produce was diverse, delicious, and affordable. We made some really good dinners out of it.
Fehrat Pasha Mosque: Considered one of the most beautiful mosques in the Balkans, this is a reconstruction as the original one from 1579 was destroyed during the war (when non-Serbs were killed or removed from this area of the country). While it is a pretty mosque, I don’t think it’s worth traveling for.
Gentleman’s Street: The main section of downtown Banja Luka, Gentleman’s Street offers a lot of shopping and restaurants, and ends on one side with a mall (including a cinema). This is the area you may want to spend your time to just eat and enjoy your days.
Christ the Savior Orthodox Church: This is also a reconstruction as the original was bombed during the war - and then demolished by hand. While not as impressive in scale as many churches, this one does feel impressive amidst Banja Luka and the large open plaza around it. It’s pretty, but like the mosque, not worth traveling for.
I don’t think there’s any reason to carve out space on your itinerary to head to Banja Luka. For me, it was a convenient stop from Bihac and Sarajevo, and I enjoyed having a few days where there was less to see and more space to just relax.