A CHARMING OLD TOWN WITH PLENTY TO EXPLORE

Zadar is Croatia’s oldest continuously inhabited city - and it’s a city that’s been passed between many empires. It was first lived in during the Stone Age, then by Illyrians, then became a Roman city, then Byzantine, then Frankish, then Venetian, then Hungarian, then Italian, and was eventually incorporated into modern Croatia - as the capital of the Dalmatian Coast. When walking around, though, the primary influences you’ll feel are Roman (in the city planning, ruins, and historic buildings), Italian (in some of the defenses and food), and Croatian (obviously).

Zadar may not have been my favorite Croatian city along the Adriatic Sea architecturally, but it was my favorite city to spend time in. The narrow cobbled streets are charming, reminding me a bit of Mykonos in Greece, and the local businesses are cool and inviting. The nearby islands offer exciting day trips and, out of my sample, the best beach options in Croatia. You may not get your fill of Game of Thrones old town grandeur, but, in Zadar, I expect you’ll have a damn good time.

Beyond that, I’ll also always think fondly of Zadar because I made my first long-term travel companion friend there - bonding over hostel mates waking us up at 7AM by having sex in the dorm - and we then traveled together for three weeks. For me, the city was the start of a wild journey. Who knows - it may be for you too.

HEAD TO AN ISLAND DURING THE DAY

I think the most exciting prospect of basing yourself in Zadar is the number of nearby islands - including about a dozen large ones, and over 150 smaller islands incorporated into Kornati National Park and Telascica Natural Park. If you want to explore the smaller islands (the archipelago), your best option is to go on a private tour boat to see them by sea. If you’re looking for a day trip, though, all you need to do is head to one of the local ferry companies (G & V Line, Jadrolinija, or Miatours) to check out your options. Some islands are only accessible with an overnight stay - so make sure you talk to the ferry company to plan out how you’re returning.

We took a Jadrolinija ferry to Preko (on the closest island) for a short day trip. The city itself was unexciting, but it offered public beach furniture (including lounge chairs) and some beautiful, quiet beach areas.

We also took a G&V Line ferry to Zaglav in Dugi Otok (Long Island, the most famous of the islands) for a longer day trip. There’s a beautiful, quiet seaside promenade between Zaglav and Sali that offers tons of secluded beach spots, and, if you’re feeling adventurous, the hiking area around Saljsko Polje is full of mysterious historic rock walls and other formations. In reality, they used to be walls delimiting olive tree plots - but the overall effect is mysterious and lets you imagine it could be anything.

The island options are extensive - so I encourage you to talk to the ferry companies about what your options are and pick the islands strike your fancy. I don’t think you can go wrong with any quiet island in the Adriatic Sea.

STROLL OLD TOWN BY NIGHT

Old Town Zadar is idyllic - with narrow, cobbled streets and historic churches surrounded by city walls. It’s also small - only taking a few hours to explore in full. I recommend strolling Old Town on your first day - and also stopping by the three ferry offices to look at your island options. You’re unlikely to miss any of the major sites when you just walk around - but make sure you hit the Roman Forum and the Sea Organ (a seaside instrument that makes music from the sea breezes - and is easy to sit beside for several hours). Some other common sites include the Land Gate, the Sea Gate, the Five Wells Square, the Market Zadar, and the Cathedral of Saint Anastasia. Again, you’ll probably see them all without aiming for them if you just explore.

When you get back from your island excursions, Old Town is a perfect place to spend your night. It’s packed with good restaurants and bars, and Riva Zadar (the seaside promenade) will be full of vendors. Make sure you head to the Sea Organ and The Greeting to the Sun to catch the sunset - and see why Hitchcock called Zadar’s sunset the most beautiful in the world.

Most of all, relax and have a good time. Zadar is an ideal spot to just enjoy the sea and be lost in the moment.