A COOL CHAOTIC CITY WITH LOTS OF SHOPPING

My first impression of Tirana - the capital and largest city of Albania - was stress. I went in expecting some level of European-style structure and I found something more akin to Southeast Asian carefreeness. The bus stop had no station but was just a collection of privately run minivans in the same spot (as is the case throughout Albania). The busy roads were full of roundabouts and had no traffic lights or stop-signs; each time I crossed the street, I just hoped I wouldn’t die. The streets were like a constant open market - each storefront overflowing into stalls on the street. I think because I hadn’t slept well the day before and because I was just expecting something different, I was quickly grumpy and unenthused.

But then Tirana grew on me. Not necessarily as a tourist destination, but as someplace cool and livable. The main streets are busy, but the rest are quiet - and many pedestrianized. The shopping is abundant and lively. Some of the developing sections are genuinely modern and cool. The people are nice, the food is good and affordable, and there are amazing produce markets everywhere. I kicked my feet back, relaxed, and finally went to a movie in a theater (for my first time since I left the US).

Visiting Albania is a bit like visiting North Korea in 30 years from now if it abandoned the current regime and instituted a democracy today. The harsh, overbearing history of Albania is everywhere - but so is the energy of its modern resurgence. It’s a vibrant blend of an old way of life and pieces of modern western living - those that they’ve decided to adopt and integrate and can afford. There’s a lot to love and to learn - once you give up thinking of it as a place to sightsee.

Explore Downtown

The core of downtown is centered around Rruga Murat Toptani - a pedestrianized promenade alongside the old castle walls. The area is full of restaurants, bars, and stores (including a large mall) - and it feels modern and chic. To its west and northwest, you get to the government buildings (built during the fascist Italian regime) and Skanderburg Square (the main plaza which houses the national museum and opera).

From there, if you head a bit west of Riga Ibrahim Rugova or just south of the the river, you’ll get to see slightly less refined but just as vibrant sections of downtown. Think less structure (more street vendors and produce markets - and some streets without names) but a bursting at the seams local economy with good food and shopping. Both paint exciting pictures of where Tirana and Albania are heading.

I don’t recommend walking around to sightsee because, honestly, I don’t think any specific site is worth it. If you wander around this area, you’ll see the main attractions (an Orthodox Church, two mosques, the main plaza, several monuments, and government buildings) naturally - and you’ll find out what catches your eye and leaves an impression.

HEAD TO THE MUSEUMS

For me, the most memorable part of Tirana was learning about Albania’s history. Originally part of the Illyrian developments, Albania has been overtaken by many empires and has long sought independence as its own country. In the 20th century, it endured fascist rule under Italy, and then its local anti-fascism group grew into one of the world’s most violent and oppressive communist regimes for 50 years. Learning about the history of Albania puts your whole trip into new context - and gives you history for every person you meet along the way.

There are four main museums you can go to: The National History Museum of Albania (which gives the history from Illyrian times through the communist regime - with a lot of information on rule under Mussolini), Bunk’Art (which has two museums in bunkers - one downtown and one in the nearby mountain - both detailing the horrors of the communist regime) and the House of Leaves Museum (which details the different methods of surveillance used by the communist regime). If you’re only going to do one, I’d prioritize one of the Bunk’Art Museums.

Escape the Chaos

Tirana can feel chaotic and dirty - so I expect you’ll want to escape for a bit. There’s a nice (though unexceptional) large park - Tirana Grand Park - that you can easily spend a day in. If you want to head a bit more out of the city, you can hike (or take the cable car) up Dajt Mountain for views of the city (and some fresh air).