A RARE CITY THAT TOURISTS HAVEN’T CAUGHT ONTO YET

I’m not sure why but I was very excited about exploring the Baltic states. I had a hunch they may be charming, affordable, and underrated. Riga delivered on my hopes in spades. I don’t think I’d be hyperbolic to say I think it’s the most livable city I’ve been to in Europe.

Founded in 1201, Riga was once a member of the Hanseatic League and is now the largest city in the Baltic States; 1 in 3 Latvians live in the city and it produces half of the country’s GDP. The city itself feels like it’s half park - never cramped, never far from a green space. All of Riga was pedestrian friendly, bursting with stunning architecture, and it boasts what I think is maybe the best food market in Europe. Honestly, the whole day I explored Riga I was just in a state of pure delight. This is a city I know I’ll be coming back to.

WALK THROUGH Vecrīga - Old Town

Riga’s old town is one of the most idyllic, charming sections of a European city I’ve been to - probably second only to Edinburgh. It stretches on for quite a while, so you can easily spend a few hours just wandering around. It’s a pleasant, quiet walk because the entire area is pedestrian friendly (though the cobble stones can wear down your feet), and you’ll never feel cramped because it’s full of town squares. Most remarkably, because Riga isn’t dripping in tourists like many major European cities, the old town isn’t a tourist trap yet. Sure, you’ll find souvenir and local crafts shops - but predominately it feels like a local, thriving economy.

You’ll hit most of the major buildings if you wander around - but if you feel like targeting specific places, head to Town Hall Square, the Three Brothers (the oldest buildings), and Riga Cathedral. While you’re in this section of town, I think it’s an absolute must to hit the Riga Central Market - which is my favorite food market I’ve been to in Europe.

CHECK OUT THE ART NOUVEAU ARCHITECTURE

Riga boasts one of the world’s largest collection of art nouveau buildings - about 800. This is because the city boomed in wealth and expanded during the period art nouveau was most famous (late 1800s, early 1900s) - so the city’s expansion invested heavily in art nouveau housing. The best area to see this is north of Old Town around Albert Street. I also highly recommend going to 10a and 10b on Elizabetes Street - masterpieces by “Riga’s Gaudi.”

RELAX IN THE PARKS

The entire section between Old Town and the newer town (the section dense with art nouveau) is parks. I recommend walking through Bastejkalna Park and Vermane Garden in particular, and checking out Riga Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral while you’re there. Both parks have stunning views within themselves and out toward the city - and offer a quiet escape form the gentle bustle of the city itself.