A CITY THAT REMINDED ME OF PHILLY - AND POLARIZED OTHERs LIKE PHILLY

I fell in love with Marseille in the same way I fell in love with Philly. That is to say, at first I hated it. It felt gritty, unexceptional, and uncontrolled. Then, once I got over myself, I became thoroughly charmed by the same things. It’s a city that bleeds authenticity - puts its chaos, rebellious spirit, and lawlessness on full display. It has no airs, and is exactly what it seems.

Marseille is the oldest city in France - having been a Greek port city formed around 600 BC. It’s been Greek, an independent city-state, Roman, and French; it’s in Province, an area that has historically had its own dialect more similar to Catalan than French. It’s extremely multiracial, having some of the largest Muslim and Jewish populations in France, and its population is formed off of a rich history of immigration from Italy, the Middle East, and Africa. The overall result is it feels less like what I think of as France, and more like a New York City style melting pot.

Marseille is also no stranger to adversity, even in more recent history. They had a second wave of the bubonic plague that killed have the population in the 18th century. An entire section of the city was bombed to the ground during WW2, displacing thousands of residents. The transfer of power between empires has not always been peaceful - and Marseille’s rebellious streak is easy to see in the city. There’s a fortress built along the port to protect the French king from the residents. I was told Marseille refused to pay French taxes for hundreds of years on my walking tour - but I can’t confirm it.

This melting pot culture is one thing that made me think of Philly - but there was more. Like Philly, Marseille is another city in which the richest people live in the suburbs, and the city itself has historically been much poorer. Like Philly, Marseille has a historical reputation of being seedy, gritty, and unsafe. Like Philly, Marseille sometimes looks in disrepair, and it can seem like there’s no regulation of petty crime or rule breaking. Like Philly, the residents are boisterous, independent, and abrupt - though not mean. Like Philly, Marseille is rich in history and museums, and parts of the city are absolutely breathtaking. Like Philly, you don’t have to go far to get to stunning nature.

Like Philly - Marseille just is what it is - unabashedly. It might not be polished - but it’s not usually trying to be - and it doesn’t care if you are either. The result is Marseille did seem polarizing. Several of the people I met who went there actively disliked it - having left feeling unsafe. Others, like me, found it all part of the charm. Marseille is not your tidy, perfect vacation spot, so it’s not for everyone. It was for me.

It also has the best vegan bakery I’ve ever been to; Oh Faon! was truly incredible. I would be happy eating a breakfast there every day for the rest of my life.

HIKE CALANQUES

If there’s one thing I think you absolutely must do in Marseille it is to hike Calanques National Park. You can take the 22 bus to one of the hiking trails, or if you love walking like me, it’s about a 2 hour walk from the city to the entrance of the park. The views are serene throughout - with tree-dotted cliffs jutting over pristine blue water. My day at Calanques was one of deep peace.

If you’re not a hiker, there are boat rides out of the Old Port that you can take around Calanques to enjoy the views without the hike.

EXPLORE THE HISTORICAL SITES

Le Panier is the historic neighborhood of Marseille; traditionally where the fisherman lived and a deeply poor neighborhood, it’s now being gentrified with Airbnbs and hipster shops. The streets are quaint and cute - and also often in disrepair or abandon. They tell a story. It’s a district I would prioritize going to.

You’ll also want to visit the Old Port, the Old Harbor (an architectural site in a commercial plaza), and Fort Saint Jean (the king’s fortress to visit the city while being protected by the locals). I particularly liked Fort Saint Jean, which has been built into a public park of sorts, and has nice views of the city and port. It’s a unique, seamless integration of a historical site into a public space.

VISIT THE CATHEDRALS

I found myself surprisingly fond of both of Marseille’s main cathedrals - Basilisque Norte Dame de la Garde and Cathedrale La Major. It may be that they’re both Neo-Byzantine cathedrals, so they have a very different architecture than the types I’ve been seeing recently. But what I think it really was for me was the multi-colored striped placement of the stones throughout. It left both spaces bright and mesmerizing.

Plus, both are free for entry.

ENJOY THE CITY VIEWING POINTS

Marseille is a great city for view points that include the port and the city - and they boast beautiful sunset views at night. I think the best view points were from Basilisque Notre Dame de la Garde, Palais du Pharo, and Fort Saint Jean. They’re easy places to just sit down and spend a few lazy hours relaxing there.

OTHER THINGS TO DO

Marseille has the second most museums of any cities in France, so if you’re a museum-goer, you’ll have plenty of options. I didn’t go to any, so I’m not going to list them. Here are a couple other common things to do:

• Explore the Noailles Neighborhood. This is an immigrant area with great produce markets, street food, bakeries, and international cuisine. If you want to see the chaotic bustle of Marseille in full force, this is the best place to go I think.

• Visit the Islands. There are several islands you can take boats to from the port. Some are rich in wildlife and fauna like the Frioul Archipelago. The most well-known may be to go to Chateau d’if - a historical prison that was made famous as Monte Cristo Island (the site where the hero of the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned).

If you, like me, are charmed by Marseille, I recommend just spending time wandering around and soaking it in. That was honestly my favorite part.