Granada Reminds that Empires Rise and Fall
A VIBRANT CITY RICH WITH HISTORY
Over the last few years, I found myself struggling existentially as I watched the potential decline of the United States as a democracy, or even as a society. At some point in 2021, I started to reflect on history - that empires rise and fall and humans endure it - and that we just may be in a natural part of the cycle of how humans come together - the decline. Walking through Granada helped me to reach some level of equanimity with the idea that it’s not the end of the world if the world as I know it does collapse - some peace in the knowledge that there will persist a world after.
Granada richly displays its history of being ruled by several empires. You can see medieval ruins left from the Islamic empire, walk through the bazaars and neighborhoods rich in Islamic history, see the mudéjar style architecture typical to the early Christian rule in the Alhambra, and see more recent Spanish dynasty buildings in its cathedrals, monestaries, and its abbey. This is all at a time when Spain is now a member of the EU. Looking at it in 2022, I can see the remnants of powerful empires, the cultural blending that came from often violent transitions in power, and see it playing out in our modern ruling period. It was a potent, visceral reminder that people over history have come together to form great empires, but they’ve all at some point collapsed. There’s a cycle to it - a life, a death, and a rebirth. As natural as the human lifespan.
I found myself wondering what people 1,000 years from now will be seeing in museums and ruins in Philadelphia. Probably iPhones, single-use plastics, the constitution, and monuments to the collapse of a society that was once a global power. We would have become a part of a cycle much bigger than us or our time period.
While Granada offered me this big gift, it was also a vibrant city that I could have easily spent months in. The temperature was often approaching 100, but always in the skyline you could see the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada. Anywhere you walked, you’d bump into a lookout point that showed the mountains alongside the Alhambra - one of the cultural gems of Spain. The city serves true tapas everywhere, and you can always get a drink with a free small plate for under $3. The student and backpacker populations give a vibrant, free spirit vibe to the streets and communities, and the blending of Islamic, Romani, Jewish, and Christian cultures create distinct neighborhoods that are easy to get lost in.
It’s a city I’ll come back to, and probably stay for much longer than the four days I did this time.
EXPLORE THE ALHAMBRA
The Alhambra is one of the two most visited cultural sites in Spain (the other being the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona). It’s a palace, fortress, and garden complex that is so large you can see it up in the mountain throughout the city, and is one of the world’s best preserved historic Islamic palaces. I recommend buying your tickets as far in advance as you can because they do sell out, and budgeting at least four hours to explore the complex. The sights are so rich that you may be satisfied seeing just this among the cultural gems of Granada.
SPEND TIME AT GRANADA’S MANY LOOKOUT POINTS
Throughout Granada, there are many lookout points (miradoras) that give stunning views of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Granada, and the Alhambra. My favorite point for the sunset was Saint Michael Viewpoint - in particular the grassy knolls right below it. I was told by a bartender that the best spot for the sunset is the terrace bar of the Hotel Alhambra Palace, though I didn’t get a chance to go.
My favorite view point of the mountains was the Abadia del Sacromonte, and my favorite viewpoint of the Alhambra was the Mirador de San Nicolas. There are no shortage of other miradoras to explore, though.
HIKE IN THE SIERRA NEVADA
A trip to Granada would be lacking without a hike in the Sierrra Nevada, an absolutely stunning mountain range. You don’t have to travel far out of the city, thankfully. There’s a public bus that will take you to Monachil, a nearby town that has a 10 mile hiking trail starting close the bus stop. I would leave early in the morning to avoid the worst of the heat and bring lots of water.
AND DO SO, SO MUCH MORE
Granada is bursting at the seams with things to do - so much so that you will tire of the stunning sites and stop being as enthralled by their beauty. I don’t recommend filling your day too packed just to hit all the sights, and pick no more than two a day to go to. Beyond that, enjoy the culture, wander around, and rest. Here are some common to-dos:
The Sacromonte Caves: Historically, the Romani travelers built their community in mountain caves on the outskirts of the city and still live in them today. You can even pay to eat dinner with one of the locals in their house / cave.
Albaicin: A historical Islamic neighborhood boasts great food and most of the best miradoras. I recommend walking along Carrera del Darro to get there, which is a historical street with some idyllic views and the only preserved Islamic bath ruins of the city (the rest having been destroyed after the requisition).
Eat Tapas and drink Tinto Verano: Throughout the day, you can order a drink most places and get a small plate of food along with it (tapas). I recommend trying tinto verano - house red wine over ice with sparkling lemonade - which is lovely in the midday heat. Like most of Spain, the locals also love a caña, a small pour of draft beer. Either are typically under $3.
Abadia del Sacromonte: Considered by some to be the first university in Spain, this historical site has stunning mountain views and a set of holy caves where historical lead books were found and have chapels built into them.
Granada Cathedral: The largest cathedral in Granada, the selling point of paying the entrance fee is the stunning ceilings.
Palacio de la Madraza: A royal palace near the cathedral.
Alcaiceria. Near the palace and the cathedral, there used to be a grand bazaar. It is now full of permanent shops, but it retains the bazaar feel. My preferred market was along Calle Calderia Nueva, which felt like a Middle Eastern market and is located near all the best falafel and other Middle Eastern restaurants.
Carmen de los Martires Garden: Located near the Alhambra, this large garden is free and makes you feel like you’ve left the city entirely.
Monasterio de la Cartuja: A monastery a bit outside of the city, it is a classic example of baroque architecture. It’s selling point is its stunning sacristy, which it boasts as the most beautiful in the world.
Basilica de San Juan de Dios: Another ornate baroque church in Granada.
Monasterio de San Jeranimo: Another monastery in Granada known for its lavish interior.
You won’t run out of things to do or places to see in Granada. Unless you’re staying for quite a while, don’t plan to hit them all because you’ll tire yourself and things will stop feeling special. Take the time to relax and soak in the city.