A CAPITAL OF NIGHTLIFE IN EUROPE

Bucharest is Europe’s fourth largest city (within administrative boundaries) and quickly becoming one of its most popular tourist destinations. Historically known as “Little Paris,” I found the city had all the filth but little of the grandeur of its namesake. Some of the architecture is beautiful - but it lacks the upkeep or the consistency of city planning to leave the city as beautiful as a Paris or a Vienna. Even some of the most exquisite buildings are coated in a layer of (unexceptional) graffiti.

What Bucharest excels at for tourists, though, is a loud, busy bar and club scene throughout its old city. To me, it mostly felt like a frat party full of Brits (and a surprising amount of Americans). It’s not a refined partying district - but a place that caters to those who just want a wild, youthful night.

Unless you’re already traveling in the region or just looking for a debaucherous weekend, I don’t recommend going out of your way to visit Bucharest. If you’re exploring the region, though, there is plenty to keep you occupied for a day or two - even if you don’t want to have a wild night out.

I will caveat this review by saying that, outside of the central district, it seemed like Bucharest may be a cool place to live (or to visit friends). Much of the city was quiet, easy to maneuver, and full of enough businesses to keep life vibrant.

Explore (And Party in) The Old City

The historic gem of Bucharest is its Old City - and the main boulevard extending out of it (Calea Victoria). Here, you’ll find an atmospheric quarter with many cobbled roads and charming alleys (like its umbrella street or Macca - Vilacrosse Passage). As you stroll around, you’ll naturally bump into the finest examples of old architecture the city has to offer (like the National Museum of Romanian History, the Palace of Deposits and Consignments, the National Museum of Art, and the Romanian Athanaeum). If you’ve traveled around Europe quite a bit, I don’t think any of these buildings will be particularly memorable - but they do leave the area with a charming feel.

I recommend going out of your way to Stavropoleos Monastery Church (because its cloister feels like Elven Middle Earth) and to grab lunch at Caru’ cu Bere (a restaurant that has been running since the 1800s, has a stunning interior, and offers a $6 four course lunch special).

The Old Quarter really comes alive at night (because almost every single business is a restaurant or a bar). As you walk around, you’ll hear music blaring, pass gentleman’s clubs, and have plenty of options to grab fast food or go dancing. I would just be prepared for a crowded, rowdy night if you join in.

Check out the Absurd Excess of the Parliamentary Palace

Bucharest has the second largest administrative building in the world - also the world’s heaviest and most expensive building: The Parliamentary Palace. This was a pet project by the communist dictator in the 1980’s and is an incredible example of wasteful, excessive spending. The building is still 70% empty even though it is in active use - and it uses the electricity of a small city. To be honest, the architecture itself is unremarkable - a bit derivative and lacking any kind of creative edge to make it stand out against similar buildings. It’s just an extremely large version of things that have been done before.

You can take a tour of the interior, but I didn’t think it was worth the money or the time. You’ll learn that the building was constructed of only the finest Romanian materials - in particular marble, crystal (which creates its many chandeliers), gold (which is used for decorative work throughout the walls and ceilings), cherry wood (for carved wood doors), wool and silks (for carpets and tapestries).

I think the most fascinating thing about the building is that it was designed by a woman in her 20s; she won the contest to be the lead architect in the 1980s. That just feels shockingly ahead of its time.

RELAX IN THE PARKS

Bucharest has a few really nice parks - particularly in the fall when the leaves are changing. If you’re looking for a space to leave the chaos of the city and relax, I’d recommend either King Mihai I Park (which centers around the river), Tineretului Park (which has a manmade lake), or Carol I Park (which is, I think, the most charming small park in the city).

OTHER THINGS TO DO

As one of Europe’s largest cities, there’s certainly no shortage of things to do. Here are some other things to keep yourself busy:

• Head to a Museum: You can learn about traditional Romanian architecture in the open air Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum, about Romanian folk traditions in Romanian Peasant Museum, about the country’s history in the Museum of Romanian History, or enjoy some art at the National Museum of Art.

• Catch a Show: You can catch a musical performance at the Roman Anathaeum. I’d recommend checking for tickets before you go; they were sold out while I was there.

• Grab some Fresh Produce: If you head to Obor Market, you can explore the local produce and buy some fresh squeezed juice. I didn’t get a chance to go - but I did hear the fresh grape juice there is really good.

• Take a Day Trip: From Bucharest, you can head north to the medieval Saxon city Brasov or check out Dracula’s Castle (Bran Castle). Just check to make sure Bran Castle is open before you head there.

I think a day or two is plenty for Bucharest - unless you’re there for a few nights of partying. I’d keep my ear to the ground about how the city develops over the next ten years, though. Like a lot of Eastern Europe and the Balkans - there’s definitely potential here.