A SMALL TOWN WITH MORE TO LOVE THAN I EXPECTED

I didn’t know what to expect of Berat because every description given to me was a bit vague. When I got there, I found myself thoroughly charmed by the historic architecture and quiet streets, but now find myself in the same position of everyone who recommended the city to me: I don’t quite know why it’s awesome. I’ll try to explain, though.

Berat is one of Albania’s three world heritage sites and one of its most commonly visited cities. Known as “The City of 1,000 Windows,” it has two mirror neighborhoods that rise up opposite sides of the river valley - both with white facades, brown roofs, and equally spaced windows spread throughout the front. Walking into Berat was the first time I really regretted bringing a suitcase instead of a backpack because many of the streets are made of loose dirt and stone; they’re picturesque, but not the nicest to walk up. These two neighborhoods are sometimes stood up as examples of excellence in Balkan architecture.

What I think makes Berat rise above similar cities, though, is that its castle quarter is still occupied. Quite often, when you visit castle fortifications, you will read that they once housed lively markets and neighborhoods. Berat was the first I went to that still does - and walking through its castle quarter did feel like stepping back in time. A period where logistic convenience mattered less - where cars don’t need to be able to drive and everything requires a steep climb.

WALK THROUGH THE TWO HISTORICAL NEIGHBORHOODS

I would start a trip to Berat by walking through the two residential neighborhoods: Mangalem (the traditionally Muslim quarter below the castle) and Gorica (the traditionally Christian quarter across the river). Both neighborhoods are similar - charming stone walls with narrow roads made of dirt and stone, and similar style houses. Both sides only have businesses on the main streets along the river, so wandering through will be quiet and residential. You’ll be able to work your way through fairly quickly without stores to distract you.

EXPLORE THE CASTLE QUARTER

To me, the highlight of Berat is taking the (very) steep climb up to the castle quarter - which has a largely intact city wall and is full of architecture (and ruins) from the various periods of the city’s rule. The delight of the trip, though, is that the castle quarter is still full of homes, restaurants, and shops - making it not just a relic, but a piece of living history.

Throughout the quarter, you can find stunning panoramic views of Berat and the nearby mountains. There’s also an iconography museum of the art from the various churches in the castle quarter.

Some Other Spots to Visit

While easy to miss, Berat has a small medieval section right between Mangalem (the historically Muslim neighborhood below the castle) and the more modern quarter. It’s good to pop in before checking out Boulevard Republika - Berat’s most modern street that is home to many restaurants and bars. I stopped in to Aroma Bakery (on a parallel street) every day for some spinach pie.

Head Out to the Nearby Nature

Not far out of Berat, you can find Albania’s largest canyon, Osumi River Gorge - a really nice natural feature with spots that you can swim in. Along the way is a small waterfall - Bogove Waterfall - where you can swim in its mountain-cold water.

Neither are the most stunning of their type, but it’s a really nice day trip that you can schedule at several tourist shops throughout the city (or at your hostel). While not necessary on a trip to Berat, I don’t think you’ll regret staying an extra day to explore some more off the road sections of the country.