THE CITY IS MORE THAN BIKES AND COLORFUL CANAL-FRONT HOUSES

Originally a Viking settlement, then the Scandinavian capital during the Renaissance, Copenhagen is now the largest city and capital of Denmark. While the city may be best known for colorful houses along the canals, bikes, and the Little Mermaid statue, Copenhagen also delivers in some surprising ways - from the world’s third oldest amusement park smack in the city-center, to a semi-autonomous commune, to plenty of spots to jump in the water to swim. It’s a great place to wander without purpose and let the city delight you.

ENJOY A SUNSET IN NYHAVN

Nyhavn, or New Harbor, is a colorful-house-lined canal dating from the 1600s and 1700s. Once a seedier area of the city, Nyhavn, is now one of the biggest tourist sites for both its views and restaurants. There are even three houses along the strip that Hans Christian Anderson lived in, each marked with a plaque.

I recommend going around sunset because you can see the changing colors from the canal.

EXPLORE DOWNTOWN AND THE PARKS

Copenhagen has a beautiful walking route through its downtown and major parks towards the little mermaid statue (which is, admittedly, a very disappointing, anticlimactic end to a lovely stroll). I recommend:

• Start at Christansborg Palace, which is essentially now the seat of government.

• Walk through Stroget, the commercial district.

• Then, stroll through The King’s Garden and Rosenberg Castle, a Renaissance palace with the Crown Jewels.

• Keep walking Northwest and wander through Ostre Anleag, another historic park.

• Finally, end in Kastellet, a star-shaped 17th venture fortress made into a beautiful park that now has the little mermaid statue.

The whole walk should be less than five miles, and is pretty much beautiful throughout. This was my very unofficial walking path to see it all, so don’t expect any markers as you go.

STROLL THROUGH CHRISTIANA

Freetown Christiana is a semi-autonomous commune in the south of Copenhagen. Originally a military base, a group of people broke past the barricades in the 1970s, squatted, and developed a community there. While the area is most famous for its public sale of weed in its “Green Light District,” it is more than just a spot for stoners. You’ll find shops, restaurants, artists, public art, gardens, and a quirky set of locals as you spend some time wandering about. Just be careful to watch out for no photo graphics, particularly in the green light district, because you will be confronted for taking a picture in any of those zones.

Head to AN URBAN THEME PARK

Smack in the city center, across from the train station, is the world’s third oldest theme park - Tivoli Gardens. Nearly invisible from outside as it’s walled off, you can hardly hear or see the park from elsewhere in the city. But - once you pay the fee and enter, you’re in for a traditional theme park along with a pleasure garden, restaurants, and bandstands. You can even ride the third oldest roller coaster in the world.