IDYLLIC STREETS, GARDENS, AND A UNIVERSITY THAT INSPIRED HARRY POTTER

Before coming to Coimbra, all I really knew about the city was that the university students wore capes, and that was an inspiration for the Hogwarts uniform. (And that was reason enough for me to come).

As I walked to my Airbnb, I was immediately grateful that I made the stop on the way to Porto. The main city is built on a hill, and the views up and down are beautiful. The city-center is full of live music, patio drinking, and students chanting. I knew immediately I had stumbled into something special.

The roving streets of Coimbra immediately made me wonder what life was like when the city was first coming together. While there are elements of the Roman Empire (like the aqueduct) and the Islamic Empire, the city was largely built in the Middle Ages, including The University of Coimbra - Portugal’s oldest university. In many ways, the structures of the city leave it feeling at times timeless, and at times anachronistic.

I recommend picking up some basic Portuguese for Coimbra (numbers, being able to say “one of those,” the very simple stuff). My extremely limited vocabulary did come in handy on this leg of the trip. I also recommend staying close to city center; the further I walked out the less magical it was.

GETTING TO COIMBRA

Coimbra is a short, cheap (€11) bus trip away from both Porto and Lisbon. I decided to stop on my way to Porto. I used FlixBus and found it comfortable for the trip.

GETTING LOST IN THE STREETS

As I walked through Coimbra, I found myself thinking “Did a child get to map out the streets?” At points, they seemed entirely random to me. That’s the American in me; when I leave a grid system, I’m equal parts awed and irritated. (In truth, I think much of the design is to make the steep hill more walkable, so they cross back and forth in curves).

I tried to explore without a clear route, and I often got lost meandering through the many small streets and stairwells of Coimbra. Because many of them are without cars or people, or a clear indication we’re in the current era, I sometimes felt not only lost in place, but time. I’d stumble across a medieval church and see no cars, and then move one block to a live musician singing modern music, and then walk one more block and see a group of students in capes having beers. My imagination went wild.

I could’ve been anywhere, anytime - and it inspired so much wonder.

There are also street signs throughout the city that describe historical buildings and how they’ve been repurposed, so a casual walk can feel more like a tour. I also loved Av Sav De Bandeira - a wide tree-filled street that reminded me a bit of the Parkway in Philadelphia.

EXPLORING THE GARDENS

Coimbra is full of parks, including the Botanical Garden of the University of Coimbra (which is free). Exploring them was a highlight of my trip, and I spent time in several of them just sitting to rest and admire the view.

I strongly recommend visiting the botanical garden if you come. There are two sections - one a more traditional manor garden, and the rest a roaming forest (‘the woods’) that leaves you feeling completely like you’ve left the city. There’s also a nice public restroom, should you ever need one.

I also loved Jardim de Sereira, which also had an expanse that felt like it was no longer in the city, and the Pedro e Ines Footbridge, which has stunning views of the city center and of the large fountain built into the river (so cool!).

VISITING THE UNIVERSITY

The campus of the University of Coimbra is must-see if you visit. It’s architecturally quite distinct from the rest of the city (expansive buildings, largely not ornate, but the ornate sections are beautiful). I found it interesting to see an historic university without much greenery - in particular to see a quad (main square section) so full of stone. For me, the highlight was seeing the students in their capes. There is something whimsical about watching students walk around in capes through the historic buildings.

The University’s baroque library is known as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. If you love libraries, it’s a must see. I went, but I think the €12 ticket is priced too high for anyone who doesn’t love libraries (which is honestly me, so this purchase was probably a mistake). The ticket also gets you into the Royal Palace in the university, which offers some stunning views of the city, and the student jail. There was once a time students were literally put in a jail on the campus!